Body care – body beautiful

Many articles have been written about skin care products for the face but the body is often left to take care of itself. John Woodruff redresses the situation and concentrates on treatments for the whole body

At the IFSCC Congress 2010 there were many posters that dealt with the reduction of body fat and the treatment of cellulite. Adipocytes are highly active cells which play a key role in the control of the body’s energy. They are balanced by two main pathways: lipogenesis leads to the synthesis and storage of triglycerides and lipolysis leads to the hydrolysis of these triglycerides to release energy.

With advancing age changes within adipose cells include enhanced lipogenesis together with decreased lipolysis resulting in increased lipid storage within the adipocytes as well as changes in the dermal architecture. The formation of cellulite refers to increased storage of lipids in the subcutis and hence an increased number of adipocytes and increased size of adipocytes in the adipose tissue.

The presentations at the IFSCC Congress were mostly about the use of various plant extracts that stimulated microcirculation or lipolysis. Tamara Al-Bader^[1] discussed the effects of cosmetic ingredients as anti-cellulite agents. The abilities of Furcellaria lumbricalis, Fucus vesiculosus, retinol, conjugated linoleic acid and a glaucine mixture to stimulate lipolysis in human adipocytes and stimulate the production of procollagen I by mature fibroblasts were investigated; the glaucine mixture also containing glycerine, coco-glucoside, caprylyl glycol and alcohol. It was concluded that a unique combination of these ingredients synergistically increased lipolysis from mature adipocytes. Furcellaria lumbricalis and Fucus vesiculosus also stimulated mature fibroblasts to produce proCollagen I. The in vitro actions of the ingredients were translated in vivo, whereby a clinical improvement of cellulite condition was observed.

J-P Arnaud^[2] studied the action of a specific fraction of Nephelium longana seeds extract on a new target involved in the control of adipose tissue growth. Arnaud demonstrated that a 0.2% solution of the extract inhibited the expression of Plasminogen Activator Inhibitor-1 or PAI-1 and claimed that the decrease in adipocytes and the stimulation of angiogenesis made the extract of interest for extracellular matrix remodelling. This extract is available commercially in aqueous-glycerol media from Lucas Meyer under the trade name Sveltessence.

Imke Meyer^[3] described a material of undisclosed constituents under the code name BIO1617. Meyer said that to achieve a reduction of lipid accumulation in adipose tissue different compounds were screened for their activity. Three modes of action were evaluated. First was the differentiation of adipocytes resulting in a decreased amount of incorporated lipids and a lower number of differentiated adipocytes. Next was the inhibition of lipogenesis by decreasing lipoprotein lipase activity and catalysing the extracellular hydrolysis of triacylglycerols. Finally the stimulation of lipolysis to increase intracellular catabolism of lipids by hormone sensitive lipase was studied. Meyer claimed BIO1617 to be a multifaceted anti-cellulite active ameliorating all three modes of action to reduce the size as well as the number of adipocytes.

It is accepted that a cause of decreased lipolysis is oxidative stress from free radicals and the result is that fat cells become much larger. Their enlargement and the formation of new fat cells exert a pressure on the surrounding tissue to hamper the microcirculation, which leads to oedema and pain at the affected sites.

Protecting the mitochondrial sirtuins from oxidative stress was described in a paper by Herve Offredo.^[4] An extract of Lotus maritimus was shown to stabilise vitamin C and improve collagen synthesis and maturation by human dermal fibroblasts, which gives it potential importance in improving the firmness of ageing skin. It increases lipolysis of triglycerides in human adipocytes by inhibiting phosphodiesterase III activity, and stimulates the production of an adipokin called adiponectin involved in lipid synthesis.

Xanthines, like caffeine, are used in anti-cellulite cosmetics due to their lipolytic activity on fat. The site of action of caffeine is on the adipocytes located in the hypodermis and the cosmetic formulation has to be designed to ensure that caffeine reaches the active site. Federico Svarc^[5] suggested that a complex of caffeine, triethanolamine hydroiodide, algae extract, Hedera helix extract and Ruscus aculeatus root extract has a proven anti-cellulite action in vivo. Moreover, it was observed that the complex was more effective when it is adsorbed in porous inorganic microparticles of mean diameter 100nm than in a hydroglycolic solution and the complex was more effective than its individual components alone.

Ingredient suppliers offer a multitude of materials recommended for reducing cellulite and other unwanted fatty deposits and also for improving the shape and volume of the bust.

Not yet a Subscriber?

This is a small extract of the full article which is available ONLY to premium content subscribers. Click below to get premium content on Cosmetics Business.

Subscribe now Already a subscriber? Sign in here.